South Downs Way

Halfway point, Houghton, near the River Arun

The South Downs Way, a 100 mile (160km) walk east from Winchester, Hampshire to Eastbourne, East Sussex. A well-known and well-trodden route.

I set out with my brother, with the youthful advantage and Aylee, a friends dog. Arriving on a Monday night late July, in a break from lockdowns, we set off to get a few miles done before camping.

An early start, quick porridge breakfast, an uplifting encounter with a barn owl and we were off. A long, but lovely first day, the sun was shining, the landscape varied, the blisters arrived, a muddle puddle didn’t help, but that’s what happens. With a short lunch stop, and a couple of mini-breaks, we kept moving, we stopped after around 11 hours and 22 miles. A satisfying first day.

The next morning, slightly aching, me with my shin splints, my brother with foot trouble and the dog with not enough sleep, but plenty of stamina to envy.

Day two, a lovely day, hiking along the undulating hills, through wooded areas and streams. This was the day I discovered the importance of flexible footwear. The shin splints worsened, the pain increased. We hobbled on, completing another 24 miles. We ended the day in Harting Down, perhaps my favourite place on the whole trip.

Day three, woke up with pain, we hobbled through Amberley, through Queen’s Elizabeth Park, another highlight. Inevitably there were some heavy downpours, but it didn’t dampen the mood. On this day, myself and my brother walked at different paces, me ploughing on ahead, slow but steady, my brother having more rest stops, but catching up with speed. Aylee kindly divided her time between us. By the time we went to sleep, moving a metre felt like a mile.

A windy day, a day we felt it was all ups on the Downs.It was my brothers birthday, the sun did mostly shine, and we entered familiar territory of Devil’s Dyke. We stopped at the Dyke, had an ice lolly, looked at our sore legs, then trudged on. It was great to be in such a familiar area but to find new areas of beauty to explore. As it was my brother’s birthday, all day we had the focus of a pub meal to end the day. Food fantasies was the carrot I needed. We found a pub, ate, relaxed and it felt good. The next day was due to be our last, and this challenge would be complete.

The next day we were able to off-load our heavy bags, and reluctantly, but sensibly, Aylee. The lack of sleep was too much for her, it’d not be fair to make her to walk the final 19 miles. The weather, not realising it was the height of summer, was at times, ludicrous. Strong winds and driving rain while we walked the rather baron hills, farmers, plant some trees, towards Eastbourne. Fortunately, our final few miles, the rain stopped, the sun occasionally broke through the clouds and we headed to the finishing post. Once there, of course, what do you do? Get the bus home I guess, so we did. Arriving home after our adventure, with swollen shins but a sense of satisfaction. I’d not be able to walk more than a few steps for the next 10 days.

The Royal Pavilion

Endangered